It was like stepping into a Victorian hunting odyssey. I almost expected a golden maned Aslan to stalk majestically through the lobby. Or the wardrobe door to open to reveal Mr Tumnus the fawn hanging butchered, ageing for 28 days, or whatever fawn meat hangs for.
Anthony Flinn is a bit of a food legend in Leeds. His impressive CV includes a two year stint under Ferran Adrià at the world’s “best” restaurant, El Bulli. Flinn’s own flagship restaurant, Anthony’s, is perpetually tipped for a Michelin star. His latest project, Piazza, opened in late 2008, is situated in one of the most impressive, historically beautiful buildings in the North of England – Leeds Corn Exchange. Anthony’s footprint includes an impressive 125 seater brasserie, a patisserie, bakery, chocolatier and delicatessen. Wine, however, is another science.
My opening exchange with the waitress: Gevrey Chambertin Domaine Heresztyn 2005 please – what temperature would you serve that? “About two above room”. Ouch, no WART awards here. Please can I have an ice bucket? “Yes sir, no problem.” Things are starting to improve already. After all, the wine list looks well thought out, and superbly priced, and the menu looks bistro chic.
Christmas day. Partridge on the menu. Well it has to be more exciting than turkey, and we don’t even own a pear tree.
Searching for a wine match, I figured a mature Grand Cru Burgundy should fit the bill. This Domaine Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin is way beyond the top end of my normal wine budget at about £90 per bottle but it IS Christmas so I am happy to splash out. Is it worth the huge wonga though? In a single word, erm, not on your bastard nellie. I would rather have a threesome with two multi-tongued Ood than fork out the price of a brace of afternoon teas at The Ritz to end up with a limp biscuit.
Last time I tried this wine, there was a hint of cabbage on the nose, this time too. Fortunately, the taste is a bit more refined: Quince jelly with some orange blossom, but still a bit tart really. I can think of a large number of Pinot Noirs from Burgundy and New Zealand, for example, that would blow the socks off this wine at about 20% of the price.
Merry Christmas, anyway. I am going back to my Fortnum & Mason 2000 vintage champagne which is very moreish and goes very well with Dr Who (David Tennant) and the Master (John Simm). Will the Master Race take over the world? Not on your bastard nellie! Can’t wait for the NY Day episode!
An attempt to impress the mother in law almost ended in failure. Having tried to book places under the direction of Marco Pierre White and Richard Corrigan (and others) only to be told there was no room at the inn, we were suspicious that the Westbury could easily accommodate us at 8pm on a Saturday evening. We shouldn’t have worried. Wilde has the atmosphere of a posh but modern grill with the service of a well dressed regiment of polite bombardiers from nations far and wide and including an occasional Irish accent. The food is as good as I’ve eaten in Dublin and, yes, I have tried Eddie Rocket’s.
OK, firstly a surprising admission. I have finally found it in my heart to give those blasted Aussies credit for something more than being reasonably adept at cricket.
Is there anything that could make me feel more at home on my first night in New York, than an old fashioned English Victorian style chop house that has been around since 1885. However, comparing this to, say, Sam’s Chop House, is a bit like putting The Oxo Tower up against the Empire State Building.
They are both fine examples of art deco architecture but one is dainty and proportioned, whilst the other is just f##king massive. I am not sure I have seen a restaurant with so many rooms, so many more covers than the ESB has floors (there are 102 since you ask and 1860 steps if you walk up – I didn’t). Keen’s is enormous. And they serve meat portions to match.
Borgata is the newest and smartest casino in AC and way out of the reach of my meagre finances, so, naturally, I dashed there to see if I could find some decent tiffin. No such thing as cheap. Even the taxi from Caesar’s (tacky) Palace was $15 for a mere 3 minute dash across town.
Tucked away in a wee cranny of this Cathedral to St Cajetan is a restaurant that sounds like an ice hockey match being played to Eine Kleine Nachtmusik. It is one of about a dozen eating places in the casino, ranging in quality from Jack High to Four of a Kind. We chose this one hoping for something better than soggy chips but cheaper than a Royal Flush.Â
Super trouper. No, not a huge stage light illuminating Anni-Frid’s gorgeous pupils. Not a 1960’s smog over London. Not even a receptacle for doggie-doos (or is that a pooper scooper?)
None of the above. Just my thoughts on the first 2005 Gevrey Chambertin I can remember tasting.
This Gevrey is top notch for a mere £20.99 from the Sunday Times Wine Club.
OK, that is far from cheap but I think it is worth it. Bright as a button with forest fruits, hay and meringue, it is a veritable farmyard pavlova.
Didn’t last long…..
I was going to review this place next year when I could have titled the post, 4030 2010.  But on the 40th floor bar of 30 St Mary’s Axe the view could not wait and, verily, it must be one of the most stunning in the whole of London.
When I bought a cheeky mystery case of red Burgundy “to drink now” from the Wine Society they probably didn’t realise how literally I would take the title of the case.
In barely the time it takes a Tory MP to repay his moat cleaning expenses, I am already deep into my third bottle.
Stumble It!