Susana Balbo Brioso, 2005
I have long been a fan of Susana Balbo’s Malbecs since I first discovered them on the rip-off wine list of the Gaucho Grill. So I was intrigued to see this blend, named Brioso, on the virtual shelves of the Wine Society. At £14.95 ($30) it is not cheap so it needs to be measured against serious competition.
As blends go, this one has a whopping 5 varietals contributing to the mix, but did this add as many facets to the flavour of the wine?
Brioso is made from 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot, and 5% Merlot.
At 13.5% alcohol, I thought it might be an attempt to imitate a Bordeaux style, but I was pleased to discover it had its own personality. Not a complete nutter – more like a slightly mad, but very interesting uncle who gets wheeled out at Christmas to regale the family with hilarious war tales, after a couple of glasses of port.
It is too jammy to be French Cabernet, and simultaneously too refined and smooth to be a new world blockbuster. There is a super long finish that left me smacking my lips in a way I have not done since I last kissed Angelina Jolie (don’t tell Brad). I did find it quite tannic though, and I wonder if it will improve in the bottle a while yet.
As for flavour, I discovered where the name of the wine came from:
 Blackcurrant
 Rhubarb
fIg
 Olives (black)
 Smoke
 Oak
Contrived? You bet.
Nice wine? Better bet on it.
Cheap? No.
Worth it? A L’Oréal moment.
May 14th, 2008 at 7:36 pm
Maybe you needed a lot of raw-ish meat to assist with the tannins?
September 27th, 2008 at 8:05 pm
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